Tutorial: Survival Mode

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TUTORIAL
Survival Mode

Bigger waves almost invariably always brings bigger consequences. While every surfers perspective of big waves is different depending on your level of experience, skill and fitness, the consequences can be the same. Surfers have got themselves in all different types of situations in both smaller and larger waves and its how you deal with these situations and switch into survival mode that makes all the difference.

Conditions

It’s all too easy to be frothing when the surf is pumping and just run straight down to the water and paddle out. But, if the break is not so familiar to you or it’s a particularly larger swell that day then it maybe a good idea to assess the conditions. Even at your local break, this same rule should apply. Assessing the conditions could be seeing how many waves are in the sets, how long are the lulls, is there a rip running that you can use to paddle out, are there any parts of the reef or rocks that you need to stay away from. Hang back and take a moment to look at the conditions while you get your equipment ready or stretch out. Watch other surfers head out and see who makes it out the back unscathed. There is nothing worse than paddling out in the wrong place, getting multiple sets on the head and getting washed up onto the rocks and being featured on kook of the day. Don’t let that be you!

Taking Beatings

Getting somewhat comfortable when getting a beating from big waves is actually something you can adapt to. A lot of confidence in the water, when it comes to big surf, will depend on your level of fitness and time in the water. Go take some beating for fun. As young groms we used grab a body board and head to a local shorebreak when it was onshore, big and stormy! Pulling into multiple closeouts and taking beating into the sand toughened us up mentally and it was fun! Body surfing bigger waves is also a great way to adapt and will prep you to swim better in the ocean, especially if you lose your board and you need to swim out of the impact zone for survival.

Wipeout

If you know your done for then there is time for you to put yourself is a less vulnerable position when you fall. It’s safer to get yourself away from the lip of the wave. Try and take control of the situation as best you can and don’t go over the falls if it can be avoided. You don’t want to get pinned down in the impact zone for an extended period only to surface to see more waves bearing down on you when your out of breath! If you end up in this situation then its best to try to stay on the surface and let the waves push you out of the impact zone.

The key is to conserve your energy as much as possible and get oxygen in your lungs. A technique like ‘hook breathing’ is something you can learn to do when you need these recovery breaths when faced with serious beat down. It’s a technique borrowed from free-diving and can be utilised by surfers. Stay tuned for a complete guide on ‘hook breathing’ and breath-hold coming soon!

State Of Mind

Finding yourself in heavy situations requires you to control your mental state to navigate yourself though the experience the best way possible. The worst thing you can do is panic! You need to conserve your energy and fighting the turbulence of a wave to get to the surface will expel more energy and send you into panic stations. Just relax and let the wave runs its course until it lets you go to the surface. Draw on past beatings if you have been adapting yourself to these types of conditions.

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